I could have used the element Gold, atomic number 79. a lot of times on this holiday I could have used it for the first visit to San Francisco when we visited the Golden Gate Park and the Golden Gate Bridge. I could have used it in Homer and Fairbanks, both which owed their founding to the Alaskan Gold Rush. But I was saving it up, in the hope (thankfully fulfilled) that the Golden Gate would come out of the cloud for us, as surely as Denali finally did last week. Today was that day - we came and saw the Golden Gate and the fog stayed away.
Open your Golden Gate
Armistead Maupin characterises views of San Francisco by comparing the two songs for which the City is best known. He says there is the survival mode, depicted by Jeanette MacDonald in the 1936 film San Francisco, with its setting in the 1906 earthquake, and the sentimental mode represented by Tony Bennett in 'I Left my Heart in San Francisco'
I was asked a few months ago which is my favourite City in the world. I pondered if it was New York, Dubrovnik or San Francisco. All have a place in my heart: New York for its brash, no nonsense ways; Dubrovnik as I remember it before the Croatian-Serbian war and how I have seen it recover from the trauma of death that came to it in that war: but San Francisco is the place which brings me back time and time again. Its variety, its openness, its amazing mix of cultures are all huge attractions. So on this my ninth visit I am again filled with the joy this city brings. I have visited Dubrovnik, 9 times too, and New York six times, but when it comes to the 10th time I think this City will be the winner.
The Comfort Inn by the Bay - the place we stayed the first time we came to SF
San Francisco manages to reinvent itself so often, even in the 25 years since my first visit here I am caught up in the things which remain the same and the things which have changed and developed. A little of my heart is always here in San Francisco and walking past the hotel where I stayed first when I came here (the other eight times have all been at the Triton), I enjoy the memories.
Breakfast
Enough of the sentiment, on with what we did on Wednesday.
I woke at 5am and blogged about the travels of the day before. Drew woke a little after 6am and I went down to the lobby for coffee.
Morning at the Triton
After showering etc we were out of the hotel by 8:30 and on to Walgreens for our one day passport Muni Passport. Here the Clipper card, of which I spoke when we were here last, means we can buy a day passport for $12 each. The paper version for non-Clipper users is $23. A huge $11 benefit for going digital!! I'm so glad we did.
Walgreens - Powell Street
We chose to go to Lori's opposite Walgreens for breakfast. This is a great place with traditional San Francisco style. It is set out like a 50s diner.
Orange Juice, Grapefruit Juice and Coffee
We began with an Orange Juice for me and a Grapefruit Juice for Drew and Coffee for us both.
Two eggs over easy with Bacon
Drew went with two eggs over easy with Bacon and white toast for his breakfast.
Corned beef, potatoes and green onions served with eggs over hard
I went for corned beef, potatoes and green onions served with eggs over hard. Yummy with crunchy potatoes and salty corned beef, not of the fatty kind that come in tins in the UK, but beef treated in the same way as pig is turned into ham.
Lands End
Our Route today - Two Buses and Cable Car and walking
When we were here before our Hawai'i and Alaska trips we walked beyond the Golden Gate to Bakers Beach. But after 7.75 miles we didn't have the stamina to get to Lands End. I'd always wanted to get to Lands End as Mary Ann, takes Norman there in the first Tales of the City book, and he falls to his death. So we walked down two blocks to pick up the 38R bus from Geary and Powell to Lands End and 48th Avenue. The R in the bus title is for rapid. The bus only stops every five stops downtown to ease the morning rush hour. So it was 18 stops before we arrived at Lands End at 10:00am.
Sutro Heights
Sutro Park Entrance
The first place we come to at Lands End is Sutro Heights where in 1896 the millionaire mayor of San Francisco Adolph Sutro set up his home as a park and allowed visitors for a dime.
The site of the conservatory!
In 1938 his heirs gave the park to the City and they demolished most of the buildings. The park now, oddly, has signs saying things like: "Here was the conservatory...before it was demolished."
Ocean Beach
However the park is very pleasant, with great views out to the Pacific and down to Ocean Beach, where we were a few weeks ago after our long walk through Golden Gate Park.
Lands End Park
Sutro Baths - Lands End Park
Views of the Sea - Lands End Park
Sutro Park gives way to Lands End Park, and you begin to see how easy it would be for someone to fall here. The imagination is helped by signs like this:
Cliff Danger
We walk a little further around the bay and Drew gets his first real view of the Golden Gate Bridge.
First View of the Golden Gate Bridge
While I have seen the bridge without fog before. I was here in January 2000 and San Francisco doesn't have winter fog. Drew has been here on five previous occasions and has taken many pictures of and from the bridge in fog. He was really pleased to be able to see it in all its glory today. There are many (and I mean many) more shots of the bridge on Flickr if you'd like to see them.
Golden Gate from Lands End
Sea Cliff
At the end of Lands End park we arrived at the community of Sea Cliff and walked along El Camino del Mar. Sea Cliff has its own entry pillars.
Sea Cliff
El Camino del Mar brings us to the place we caught the bus last time we were here. After a 3.25 Miles, 1 hour 40 minute walk from Sutro Heights to here, I'm glad we didn't carry on last time, it would have been to much.
Golden Gate
It was the soldier and politician John C. Fremont who after confirming a Gold finding in the hills beyond the City called the strait at the end of the San Francisco bay the Golden Gate:
To this Gate I give the name of 'Chrysopylae,' or Golden Gate, for the same reason that the harbor of Byzantium was called 'Chrysoceras,' or Golden Horn.
Fremont also spoke of the Gold that would enter this gate through the trade with the Orient. The name stuck and in 1936 when the Bridge was being built it was given the name of the strait, so much so than many people think the bridge is the Golden Gate not the strait.
Drew at the Golden Gate
We walk on and take lots of photos of the bridge that has hid from us all these years and didn't appear to be here just two short weeks ago.
Drew on the Bridge
We walk on to the bridge which bounces and sways a little, scaring Drew, but he bares it and takes and is in some great photos.
Downtown San Francisco from the Golden Gate Bridge
Back to Downtown
We have walked 6.4 miles so far today, so we decide to catch a bus back from the bridge.
Why to use the Clipper Card
We catch the 28 to Van Ness and North Point, a sign on the bus is a reminder of why we use the Clipper Car.
Ghirardelli Square
We get off the bus on Lombard Street and walk up to the hotel where my sister, brother in law and brother first stayed when we came to San Francisco (See the beginning of the post). From there we walked to another San Francisco Icon - Ghirardelli Square.
The Fountain - Ghirardelli Square
We have visited Ghirardelli Square at least once every time we have been to the city. It holds great memories for me. It has been updated and renewed since we were last here but retains the chocolate factory feel.
Cable Car
Cable Car
From Ghirardelli Square we walk to Bay and Hyde, the terminus for the Powell to Hyde Cable Car. We have already travelled on the other two cable cars in the city - Powell to Taylor and California but the Powell-Market to Hyde-Bay route is the best of the Cable Car routes.
Going Up
Drew and I both decided to ride the running board of the Cable Car. A lovely experience and, as I was at the front, one from which I was able to take a lot of photos of our ride. Again I point you to Flickr for all of them, starting here
Coming Down
However many times I do this it never gets old
Coffee
We got off at Bush and walked past the hotel to a Starbucks for a coffee. Then we went back to the hotel at 4pm to upload the photos, iron some clothes (a first for us on holiday) and prepare for our dinner tonight at Quince. The meal will get a whole blog post of its own.
The element of the day for the blog is Seaborgium, atomic number 106, not just because we have flown over the sea from Alaska to California, but because Glenn Theodore Seaborg worked most of his life in the San Francisco Bay area to which today we have returned. Seaborg was a chemist who was involved in the synthesis, discovery and investigation of ten transuranium elements, and he earned a Nobel Prize in Chemistry because of it. We could have used one of the names of the other 10 he discovered/investigated. But using his named one seems right, as he became the first person to have an element named for him while he was still alive. (The application came from his co-workers, citing his contribution to the work, not from him). But enough science, back to our day:
Traveling back to Anchorage
I woke up at 5:00am, completed the blog post for yesterday and posted it. Drew woke at 6am, I made coffee, we shower, pack and dress.
Frost on the car roof and rear window
We leave Old Town Copper Center at 7:15am. Imagine our surprise when we get to the car and see frost on it (it’s August!!). The exterior temperature when we start the car is 34°F (32° is 0 on the Celsius scale - ie freezing). For the first time this visit we have to go from air conditioning to heat!
Junction to the Alaska 1
At 7:25am we had turned off the AK-4 onto the AK-1. We wondered aloud when we left Anchorage where the AK-1 went when we joined the AK-3. Well now we know.
AK-1 to Anchorage
It was like seeing an old friend again, travelling along the AK-1 which took us to Homer (and which then brought us back to Anchorage). The road is flat and straight for most part. Two cars pass us coming the other way in the first 30 minutes. We don’t see anyone going the same way as us, but with cruise control cars might travel all day a mile or so apart as their cruise control keeps them at exactly 65, the speed limit, whereas if you are controlling your own speed it is more likely to fluctuate.
A very poor picture of a Moose's rear
We saw a moose on the side of the road, he was a big fella. Though given our speed I was only able to snap his rear quarters in a photo that has more wing mirror than moose.
The smoke followed us all the way into Anchorage, if we had been a week later than we were many of our mountain views would have been obscured.
Breakfast
Long Rifle Lodge
We stopped for breakfast just before 9am having travelled for 103 miles, but every eating place we saw was closed. Google Maps helped us find an open place, The Ninty-niner diner in Glacier View, but it turned out that while they opened at 8.00am what they served was Pizza, which didn't seem appropriate for breakfast. The very kind owner told us that there was a place three miles back.
Long Rifle Lodge
We realised when we arrived at the Long Rifle Lodge at 9:03am that Google Maps hadn't picked it up when we had searched for open places 30 minutes earlier!! The place was run by a young husband and wife, with him doing front of house and her working in the kitchen. After we arrived another ten other people came in, so they got quite busy.
Stuffed bear - Long Rifle Lodge
As seems to be the case in these sort of places there were stuffed animals and various antiques of homestead life.
Haydn enjoying the view
Oh and there was a glacier - the Matanuska Glacier - out the window. Some joker managed to take a shot of me checking our route, claiming I was ignoring the glacier for the sake of Facebook, Twitter or Flickr 😉 <<Co-pilot's note: All in jest, dear readers, all in jest.>> In my defense I note that the place had neither WiFi nor mobile signal, so all I could access was the map I'd downloaded for the journey.
Reindeer omelette
For breakfast Drew had a three egg reindeer omelette with potatoes, wholegrain toast and grape jelly
Reindeer burrito
I had a reindeer burrito with grilled onions, cheese, eggs and potatoes. With the spicy salsa and the sour cream it was a great way to start the day's eating.
Smoke on the mountains
The smoke on the mountains was bad and has been caused by two major fires at present. One near Talkeetna, which is limiting travel on the AK-3 Parks Highway.
Back to Anchorage Airport
We left Long Rifle Lodge at 9:50am and I drove the 103 miles to the Car Rental place at Anchorage Airport. It was strange to see familiar places in Anchorage wreathed in smoke. We arrived at 11:50am and handed over the Car. Walking to the United Airline desk and checking in at 12:10pm. (The bags for this part of the trip cost $60 - $30 each). We then went through security getting our the other side by 12.35pm.
Seafood & Tomato Chowder
It being time for lunch we went to the Norton Sound Seafood House. I started with a Seafood and Tomato chowder which was nice and spicy.
Crab and shrimp roll
This was followed by crab and shrimp roll with fries and pickle. It was not the tastiest think I have ever eaten, but was fine as something to keep us going for the journey.
Bacon and Cheese burger
Drew opted for a Bacon and Cheese burger with coleslaw and he enjoyed it. Following lunch we sat in the airport and transferred this morning's photos from the camera to the laptop. The free WiFi wasn't fast enough to upload them, so we'll do that when we are back at the Triton.
Anchorage to San Francisco
Boarding began at 1:56pm and the plane departed prompt at 2:36pm. We flew on a B737-800. Six seats per row, we have seats 34A and 34B. Seat 34C is taken by a Buddhist monk. <<Co-pilot's note: I, dear readers, had Mr B's right elbow in my left rib for most of the flight, Mr Monk's left elbow in my right rib for most of the flight. It's a good job I've got inner peace, I can tell you that!!>> We were served pretzels and coffee on the flight and I caught up with some admin on my laptop during the flight. It seems I haven't checked emails or other stuff (accounts) for most of the week we have been in Alaska. It has been full on, but fun.
We flew in over downtown San Francisco with great views or the City and of the Golden Gate bridge. Drew is certain it will have reclothed itself in fog tomorrow just to spite him!! We arrived at San Francisco Airport at 8:17pm PST (7:17pm ADT)
San Francisco
We picked up our luggage at 8:40pm and caught a free 'Air Train' from Terminal 2 to the International Terminal where the BART is located. This is one huge airport, as we saw on our trip!! We caught the BART at 8:55pm (we still had value on our Clipper Cards) getting into Montgomery Station at 9:30pm and checking in and getting to the room in the Hotel Triton at 9:40pm. We are in Room 416, which is the opposite way around to the previous room we were in (beds to the right, not the left) but otherwise very familier.
Jack in comfort - we are now in room 416
We went out again at 10:05 to grab something to eat before heading off to sleep. Drew found a nearby McDonald's and I had a Quarter Pounder with Cheese and Bacon and Drew had a Quarter Pounder Deluxe. He was very happy as I'm not a fan of burgers, so having two burgers in one day is a very special treat for him. <<Co-pilot's note: Yum, Yum, Yum.>>
Our food at McDonalds
We got back to the Hotel Triton at 11:15pm, uploaded today's photos and it was time for bed.
Well today's element was one of the easiest to pick as I sit beside the wide fast flowing Copper River in Copper Center. I've known today's blog post would be called Copper from the time I was first given this challenge by Robin, 19 days ago.
Copper is one of the few elements I know quite a bit about. Its atomic number is 29, but I know about it because those who us who study and teach Economics know it has a very high thermal and electrical conductivity and therefore has been a critical part in developed and developing economies. So much so that economists often refer to it as Dr Copper, due to its accuracy in tracking economic trends in the global economy.
I woke up at 5.00am after a lovely night's sleep. I wrote up the blog post about yesterday. At 6:00am Drew awake so I made us both coffee at then showered, shaved etc. We went down for breakfast at 7:30am and had our usual hearty Holiday Inn Express Breakfast to set us up ready for the day.
Drew's Breakfast
Haydn's Breakfast
The Road South
We were on the road by 8:15am and went first for petrol at the nearby Tesoro Petrol Station. Petrol was $2.869 a gallon, 62 pence per litre a lot cheaper than on Hawaii and cheaper than in Homer or Denali.
North Pole
North Pole
I'm surprised I've never come across it as a quiz question, but in response to the question - What is the next City south of Fairbanks - the answer is: North Pole. Now be clear this is not THE North Pole, just the Alaska town called North Pole (It chose this name by election in 1953). But if any child in any of the 50 states of the US addresses a letter to Santa Claus, North Pole - it ends up here.
The city is somewhat eccentric, with streets called Santa Claus Lane, Snowman Lane, Kris Kringle, Mistletoe, Holiday Road, Saint Nicholas Drive, North Star Drive, Blitzen, and Donnor. It is a little unnerving when Google Maps says "in .2 of a mile turn left onto Santa Claus lane. As we travel through the town we see the street lights are decorated in candy cane and many buildings are painted with Christmas colours and designs. But the centre of all this, on St Nicholas Drive is the Santa Claus house.
Drew waving to Santa
Here the whole thing gets crazier still. Well we just joined in the craziness.
Greetings from North Pole, Alaska
Those of you who were reading along with us last year will remember me travelling to Abbotsford the sight where many Christmas films are recorded. There, apart from some of the buildings I recognised there is no sign of an unseasonable Christmas. Well not so here. What is amazing is that it came as such a big surprise. Neither I nor Drew had heard of North Pole, Alaska until we looked at the map for today's trip. It was a delightful surprise.
Santa Claus House
As we enter the house 'Mary's Boy Child' is playing in the background. Later we have a rendition of Adeste Fidelis in both Latin and English. This Santa is one who incorporates the true Christmas, as well as the one focussed on St. Nicholas.
One of the many cribs on sale in Santa's House
The place was designed to sell stuff, but the wonderful layout Wonderful lay out makes you feel that Christmas has come in August.
Moose Drool
We stop for coffee and Drew has some moose drool with his coffee in the cafe, called The Sweet Shop.
Days before Christmas
Drew keeps saying things like 'Snow my Gosh' and 'Jingle Bells' you will need to watch the film Northpole or its sequel Northpole: Open for Christmas for an explanation.
Santa's Chair
Among the shopping, I bought myself a copy of The Night before Christmas. I've always loved the poem from my time alone in New York at Christmas 1999, when I went to the Church where Clement Clarke Moore was the minister. He wrote his famous poem while here, and I had the lovely experience of hearing it being read by the congregation. It made my only lonely Christmas much richer and more joyful (as did Midnight Mass at St. Agnes')
Eielson Air Force Base
Fighter Aircraft going into the air
At 10:05am we leave North Pole for the next stage of our journey on the AK-2. We traveled past Eielson Air Force Base and saw five fighters taking off at speed. I managed to get a few photos of them, but they were going fast.
Mountains and Rivers
The Denali Range
Much to our complete astonishment, and pleasant surprise, the second of the day. We realised that from the AK-2 we can see in the far distance the Denali Mountain Chain. Today, in the bright sun we can see the big one itself! It's only 160 miles away. I, jokingly, suggest we can go back there. But Drew, a true cynic, replies "you've seen how fast those clouds appear, they would get there before us" So we continue on the AK-2 going South. We then came to a viewing point over the Tanana River, and guess what, we have great views of Denali itself.
The elusive mountain has come out to see us before we leave
At Delta Junction we turn off the AK -2 and on to the AK-4. Which continues to be called the Richardson Highway. Drew smiles as the map says take the AK-4 for 164 miles. He does like point and click driving.
Yes, there she is - Denali Mountain in the middle of the range
A few miles further on we come to a Rest Point with even better views of Denali. What a surprise to see it, we thought we had lost that chance. At this point we are almost on the Denali Fault. What can I say - Wow just wow.
It's Denali's Fault
At Latitude - 63.563424 and Longitude - 145.860795 (the palce doesn't have a name we had even more chances to take the immense Alaska Mountain Range across the Tanana River.
Denali Range
There are a lot more photos of Denali and the other amazing geology in this area on Flickr.
Richardson Monument
We come to the Monument to Richardson the great road builder. This location also have views of another glacier.
The AK-4 crosses AK-8 (Denali Highway) at Paxson we crossed the other end of this road on the AK-3 at Cantwell just before we arrived at the Denali Perch.
Meier's Lake Roadhouse
We manage to stop for lunch at 1:40pm at Meier's Lake Roadhouse. This was the first place to stop since Delta Junction, 96 miles or an hour and fifty minutes ago.
The Story of the Roadhouse
Meier's Lake Roadhouse is a somewhat eccentric place, with one lady managing the shop, petrol station and the restaurant. At least she didn't have to cook too. The Roadhouse is part of a chain of roadhouses that were 20 miles apart (a day's walk) in the days of the Goldrush. There are only four left, and this is the only one from 1906. However eccentric the place was (go to Flickr for photos of their 'museum'!!) we enjoyed our lunch.
Cheeseburger
Drew had a Cheeseburger - Cheddar, Lettuce, tomato and onion (no Pickle).
Fiery St Elias Burger
I had a Fiery St Elias Burger - Hamburger with bacon, ham, 2 slices of pepper jack cheese, sriracha sauce and jalapenos, tomato, pickle and onion (No Lettuce). It was well cooked and tasty.
The mountains are back, behind Meier's Lake
We made sure the owner knew our food preferences as, when we entered, we had heard her tell (with some force) another customer that she has to go 100 miles for tomatoes, so she wants to know what people want, so she doesn't have any waste!!
The family goats
We also had a chance to meet the family goats called Goulash and Wurst.
Old Town Copper Center Inn and Restaurant
Room 1 - Old Town Copper Center Inn and Restaurant
At 3:44pm we got to Old Town Copper Center Inn and Restaurant, just off the AK-4. This inn and restaurant also does lodging, and when we arrived outside, we asked the elderly gentleman who was sitting painting the steps how we checked in. He shouted behind him "Kim, folks to check in". Kim one of the owners replied, also a volume. "Tell them check in isn't until 3pm". To which the older man replied - "but its a quarter to four". To which Kim respond "Oh expletive deleted"
Room 1 -Old Town Copper Center Inn and Restaurant
Still everything was ready for us and we could check in to our room straight away. The room is one of four in a small annex just off the main building. Everything is pristine and well laid out. More important for me, they have a great wifi connection. Kim asked what time we were leaving in the morning, and we explained the need for a prompt start due to an afternoon flight. She was disappointed not to be able to welcome us for breakfast tomorrow and even more disappointed to let us know that her and her staff were away tonight in Valdez (the nearest large town - 100 miles south) for a staff party as one of the staff was leaving.
Copper River Princess Wilderness Lodge
Copper River Princess Wilderness Lodge
Kim kindly directed us to the nearest place that does food. The Copper River Princess Wilderness Lodge, about three miles up the hill above Copper Center.
Homstead Wings
The Lodge was busy, but we were able to get a table with a nice view out to the valley beyond. I began with Homestead Wings. A light starter of crispy chicken wings and drumettes served with celery, carrots and bleu cheese dressing. I opted for the peak heat sauce, which turned out to be quite mild. The wings were nicely crisp, and it seemed strange to be into the third week of my holiday before eating what used to be a stable of my US food choices.
Caesar Salad
Drew choose the Caesar Salad with romaine lettuce, parmesan, garlic croutons and Caesar dressing, it was chrisp and salty, so Drew was happy.
Copper River Salmon
Given that Copper River Salmon is a delicacy across the whole of the USA, I couldn't resist tasting some. This lightly seasoned Alaska salmon was cooked pink and grilled with broccoli, green courgette, and petit pan served over rice pilaf. A very tasty salmon with some nice accompaniments which were an usual, but pleasant combination.
FIsh and Chips
Drew went with the Fish and Chips, with two pieces of panko breaded cod with French fries, lemon wedge and tartar sauce. The crisp batter suited the soft flaky fish and the chips (or French fries as they are called here) were nicely chipped and cooked crisply. Drew felt it was very nice indeed.
Mount Wrangell
As we left the restaurant we found that we were looking across another glacier. This one on Mount Wrangell which appears in the distance. It turns our, that while we choose Copper Center for its distance between Fairbanks and Anchorage (without repeating the journey up to Fairbanks). We have in fact come to a delightful wilderness park. Indeed the Wrangell-St Elias National Park is the biggest National Park in the USA at 20,000 square miles (Yellowstone and Yosemite need a country the size of Switerland to be added to their combined size to equate to Wrangell-St Elias!Denali National Park is the third largest at 9,492 square miles, still larger than Wales which is 8,006!! <<Co-pilot's note: For reference, dear readers. It has no camp sites, other than a short road to the Visitors Centres, all roads are gravel, there are not marked hikes. It is designed purely for people to get back to nature unaided. It is the only one in the US designed this way. You can go 280 miles without encountering any facilities. - Not I think somewhere Haydn would like!!>> We went back to Old Town Copper Center and to bed at 10.00pm. The end of another lovely day, and the beginning of our last night in Alaska.
