Fire and Ice - you see both when you come to Alaska

Glacial Ice and Forest Fire

Fire and Ice

I explained in the very first post of this blog why Drew had suggested I entitle the holiday the tour of Fire and Ice. This prompted the idea (thank you Robin) of me using elements (loosely defined) as titles for the blog posts. Today we come back to the original title as in one day we see the impact of Forest Fires and the glory of great Glaciers of Ice in this spectacular land of Alaska.

But before exploring them, let's go back to the journey which brought us here.

Monday Night

I finished my last post with the words: 

So at 9:30pm I'll sign off, see you when we are in Alaska.

The breezeway to the boarding gate

It was soon after writing those words that we were called to board the Alaska Airlines plane at 10:05pm (12:05am Alaska Daylight Time, ADT). 

Drew Looking comfortable in seat 1A before the flight

We departed at 10:45pm. (12:45am ADT) and after taxiing we took off at 11:05pm. We had great views over the bright lights of Honolulu and Waikiki and then the darkness of Diamond Head as we left the airport. 

When booking the holiday we had decided to upgrade on this flight, to get more legroom, and hopefully, to sleep better, given the overnight nature of the flight. While First Class on Alaska is not even as comfortable as Premium Economy on Virgin, it was a good idea to get extra legroom and wider seats. 
Soon after take off we are offered our meal of a bowl of lentil soup, very nourishing and a roasted vegetable sandwich. As the light's in the cabin were off for those who wished to skip food and go straight to sleep I'm afriad it was to dark to photograph the meal. 

But having had the meal, it was time to settle down to sleep at 11:45am (1:45am ADT). 

Tuesday Morning

I woke at 3:00am (5am ADT) having slept very peacefully for three and a bit hours. 

Our first sight in Alaska

An hour and three quarters later we land at Anchorage, Alaska at 6:45am (4:45am HST). We made it to our fiftieth state - yippee. 

We walked to the Bag pick up and our luggage arrived by 7am, the fastest yet. Note, while we have had to pay for luggage on the other flights, the first class flight includes the cost of luggage.

Anchorage Airport's Moose

Anchorage airport is modern, with lots of quirky features, including as we come down from the Arrivals area a large stuffed Moose. It is the record holder for the moose with the largest antlers ever. 

Images of the Aurora Borealis on the ceiling

Walking from the airport along the corridor to Car Hire we think the lighting is a bit strange, only to look up and see the lights flashing as the aurora borealis does. How pretty. 

We got to the Alamo counter at 7:15am we were the only ones there, a big change from the queues in Lihu'e. It was a short walk to the car - A blue Toyota Camry. 

Our Car for the next week

We loaded the luggage in the car, set the phone up to give directions and left Anchorage Airport at 7.30am.

Welcome to Anchorage

On the road we had three signs welcoming us to Anchorage, well two that said that and a third which said: "Anchorage Welcomes You". So we felt very welcome in this state which is so new to us, and so different from the Hawaiian Islands we have just left.

Sausage McMuffin with egg breakfast

Before leaving Anchorage we stooped for breakfast, we had been given snacks on the plane, but not enough for us to start a busy day. Drew suggested <<Co-pilot's note: Hee, hee, hee - I knew I'd manage it eventually!!>> we stop at a McDonald's which we saw as we drove. So we both had a Sausage McMuffin with egg breakfast, which involves the sausage, egg and cheese in what is called here an English muffin, a hash brown and a choice of drinks, in our case coffee. 

Alaska Highway 1

The open spaces of the Seward Highway with mountains ahead

We left McDonalds at 8:40am joining the Seward Highway, which is the name of Alaska Highway 1 at this part of its journey south.  

The mountains across the sea

We were immediately amazed by the striking scenery, wherever you looked there were mountains, forests, ice and lots of water, sea and river. Indeed the scale of everything seems so immense it could be overpowering. It certainly assiles the senses in a way nothing in Hawai'i had. Still Hawai'i's charms were somewhat different. 

The greenery is in marked contrast to the barren mountains

There are stopping points for photos all along the route, indeed if you stopped at them all you would need two days to get to your destination. 

Our Car at Beluga Point

The view across the bay - with smoke haze from the forest fires

The first area we stopped at was called Beluga Point. It is true we use the word awesome quite frequently in modern English, but the amazing, rugged sights of this place genuinely creates the emotion of awe and wonderment. 

The rail track, as seen in Michael Portillo's programme on Alaska

Yes I'd seen photos of these these mountains, hills and sea. Yes, I'd watched Michael Portillo travelling along the rail track I'd just photoed. But none of these prepared me for the impact of these things when you are in their presence. It gives a sense of amazement and joy. 

Tuesday in Alaska

The Map above outline our route very accurately. Though some of its highlights are odd (McDonalds and Safeway appearing but the place we are staying not - still you get the main points).

Stunning scenery at Portage

Green in the foreground, the sea and mountains in the background

After heading down the AK-1 for miles and miles and miles we come to the town of Portage, with some amazing views across the bay to the high mountains opposite.

Kenai Peninsula 

After Portage we leave the sea and head into the Kenai Peninsula, our home for the next two days. 

Brecon or Alaska?

From here we see a change to the views, less of the dramatic mountains and more large hills, like a taller version of the Brecon Beacons. Part of the route has similar views to those around Story Arms, but these hills are higher and steeper. 

Head right

The Seward Highway becomes the AK-9 and the AK-1 changes its name to the Sterling Highway as we travel down the peninsula. 

The River Kenai at Cooper's Landing

Cooper Landing is a riverside resort in this area. The river being the Kenai River. It becomes wider and faster as we progress along the road which runs beside it for quite some time. The Kenai is a busy river with lots of people fishing and people rafting and otherwise messing about on the river. 

Forest Fires

We then move into the forest area where we see our first forest fires of the summer. We had been warned in advance that this year's fires were the worst here in Alaska and in the whole of the Arctic, both Russian and American.

Having seem the result of smoke so badly in Canada last year, it was good to see that the fires here were being kept under control and these was not the same amount of smoke/soot in the air as in Canada last year. 

City of Kenai

From Stirling we travelled through Soldotna and left the AK-1 at the City of Kenai. 

Bacon and Egg Sandwich

We stopped in Kenai for a coffee and snack, the first coffee shop we came to was a Starbucks inside a Safeway Supermarket. We both had Americano's and I had a Bacon and Egg Sandwich, which was very nice, while Drew had a chocolate brownie. (For those who engaged in the discussion a few days ago, the coffee was hot and the brownie cold.)

Russian Churches

Church of the Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary, Kenai

One of the things I'd learnt from the Michael Portillo series on BBC Four was that there remained a sizable Offshoot Russian Orthodox community in Alaska. Though the US bought Alaska from Russia in 1867 (Seward, for whom one of the town's on the Peninsula is called was the one who signed the deal on behalf of the USA), this community has seen emigres from Russia in more recent times, due to their non-allegiance to the core of current Russian Orthodoxy. 

Church of the Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary, Kenai

One of their delightful Churches built in 1894 is the Church of the Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary here in Kenai. 

Chapel over the grave of the missionary Iguman Nilolai

The area around the Church also has a shrine chapel dedicated to Iguman Nikolai who worked with the community here in the early 1900s. 

Ninilchik 

Church of the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord - Ninilchik

From the Orthodox Church in Kenai we move on to another in Ninilchik, this route keeps us closer to the sea than the AK-1. The CHurch in Ninilchik was built in 1900 and is dedicated to the Transfiguration. 

Homer

We have made it to Homer

We continued to our destination, Homer, stopping at the Outlook Point just above the town to take photos of the town and the lovely Kachemak Bay off its coast.

Kachemak Bay

Kachemak Bay is another amazing place to be, its width, the rush of its water and the views of the mountains beyond are all suprub.

Homer Spit

Homer Spit

We are not staying in the town of Homer however, but on Homer Spit a 4.5 miles strip of land that reaches out into the bay.

Land's End Resort

We are staying in the Land's End Resort, right on the tip of the Spit. We arrived at 4pm and checked in to our room with its lovely views of the bay.

Kachemak Bay from our balcony

Dinner

After settling in, unpacking and uploading the days photos we went for a walk along the Spit.

I mentioned on Sunday that we haven't booked any places to eat for the rest of the holiday, largely due to the fact that most Alaska locations don't take online bookings, only phone bookings, and I wasn't planning phoning from the UK.  

Captain Pattie's

Today we had pencilled in eating at Captain Pattie's a fish restaurant that appealed to me from its website when I first reviewed the area.  

Having arrived we were told there would be a 30 minute wait for a table. So we sat in their lounge looking out again at the beautiful bay while having a drink. 

30 minutes must be short in Alaska, as having arrived at 7:02pm we were seated at 7:20pm.

Kachemak Bay Oysters

I began with a treat I'd not had for a long time, some lovely fresh oysters. These were local Kachemak Bay oysters shucked and served on a bed of ice. With a little touch of tabasco sauce they were rich and delicious. Yes, they have the texture of snobs, but they are delightful all the same.

Smoked Salmon Dip

Drew had a dip which was made of flaked Wild Alaskan smoked salmon. This was served with a selection of crackers. He eat all the crackers and most of the dip, but declined the waitresses offer to have it boxed for him to take-away!

Salad

As often happens in US restaurants (but not so far this holiday) ordering a main course automatically brings an option of soup (Clam Chowder) or Salad, we both had salad and it came with a sharp and tangy habanero sauce (there were other options).

Special - Baked Halibut, scallops and shrimps

We are in the Halibut capital of the world, apparently, so I felt I had to go with this local fish. I opted for the special which was baked halibut with scallops and shrimps. This was baked with breadcrumbs in a dill and parmesan sauce and served with a baked potato.  I'm not sure of the advisability of chesse with fish, but it tasted wonderful.

Drew opted for a deep fried Halibut, and he had almost twice as much fish as me. The batter was tender yet crispy, and the fish was delicious. The fries were crisp and salted well. An excellent meal.  

We left Captain Pattie's at 9pm and got back to the hotel and to bed by 9:30pm, the end of a long but enjoyable day (or was it two days!!).