Copper - as we sit beside the Copper River

Denali is visible today

Copper

Well today's element was one of the easiest to pick as I sit beside the wide fast flowing Copper River in Copper Center. I've known today's blog post would be called Copper from the time I was first given this challenge by Robin, 19 days ago. 

Copper is one of the few elements I know quite a bit about. Its atomic number is 29, but I know about it because those who us who study and teach Economics know it has a very high thermal and electrical conductivity and therefore has been a critical part in developed and developing economies. So much so that economists often refer to it as Dr Copper, due to its accuracy in tracking economic trends in the global economy. 

Copper River

Today I use it because the Copper River is called that due to the abundant copper deposits along the upper river. Indeed the Native Alaskans called it this, at least the Tlingit people of the southern part of the river have known it as Eeḵhéeni: River of Copper. The Ahtna Athabascan people who lived in what is now Copper Center called it 'The River of the Ahtna people.' A long link to the element exists in the area, with copper being found near human remains at Copper Center from 5,000 years ago.

But first back to the beginning of the day and two great surprises which make this one of the very special days of the holiday. But first breakfast:

Breakfast

I woke up at 5.00am after a lovely night's sleep. I wrote up the blog post about yesterday. At 6:00am Drew awake so I made us both coffee at then showered, shaved etc. 

We went down for breakfast at 7:30am and had our usual hearty Holiday Inn Express Breakfast to set us up ready for the day.

Drew's Breakfast

Haydn's Breakfast

The Road South

We were on the road by 8:15am and went first for petrol at the nearby Tesoro Petrol Station. Petrol was $2.869 a gallon, 62 pence per litre a lot cheaper than on Hawaii and cheaper than in Homer or Denali. 

North Pole

North Pole 

I'm surprised I've never come across it as a quiz question, but in response to the question - What is the next City south of Fairbanks - the answer is: North Pole. Now be clear this is not THE North Pole, just the Alaska town called North Pole (It chose this name by election in 1953). But if any child in any of the 50 states of the US addresses a letter to Santa Claus, North Pole - it ends up here. 

The city is somewhat eccentric, with streets called Santa Claus Lane, Snowman Lane, Kris Kringle, Mistletoe, Holiday Road, Saint Nicholas Drive, North Star Drive, Blitzen, and Donnor. It is a little unnerving when Google Maps says "in .2 of a mile turn left onto Santa Claus lane. As we travel through the town we see the street lights are decorated in candy cane and many buildings are painted with Christmas colours and designs. But the centre of all this, on St Nicholas Drive is the Santa Claus house.

Drew waving to Santa

Here the whole thing gets crazier still. Well we just joined in the craziness. 

Greetings from North Pole, Alaska

Those of you who were reading along with us last year will remember me travelling to Abbotsford the sight where many Christmas films are recorded. There, apart from some of the buildings I recognised there is no sign of an unseasonable Christmas. Well not so here. What is amazing is that it came as such a big surprise. Neither I nor Drew had heard of North Pole, Alaska until we looked at the map for today's trip. It was a delightful surprise.

Santa Claus House

As we enter the house 'Mary's Boy Child' is playing in the background. Later we have a rendition of Adeste Fidelis in both Latin and English. This Santa is one who incorporates the true Christmas, as well as the one focussed on St. Nicholas.  

One of the many cribs on sale in Santa's House

The place was designed to sell stuff, but the wonderful layout Wonderful lay out makes you feel that Christmas has come in August. 

Moose Drool

We stop for coffee and Drew has some moose drool with his coffee in the cafe, called The Sweet Shop. 

Days before Christmas

Drew keeps saying things like 'Snow my Gosh' and 'Jingle Bells' you will need to watch the film Northpole or its sequel Northpole: Open for Christmas for an explanation. 

Santa's Chair

Among the shopping, I bought myself a copy of The Night before Christmas. I've always loved the poem from my time alone in New York at Christmas 1999, when I went to the Church where Clement Clarke Moore was the minister. He wrote his famous poem while here, and I had the lovely experience of hearing it being read by the congregation. It made my only lonely Christmas much richer and more joyful (as did Midnight Mass at St. Agnes') 

Eielson Air Force Base

Fighter Aircraft going into the air

At 10:05am we leave North Pole for the next stage of our journey on the AK-2. We traveled past Eielson Air Force Base and saw five fighters taking off at speed. I managed to get a few photos of them, but they were going fast.

Mountains and Rivers

The Denali Range

Much to our complete astonishment, and pleasant surprise, the second of the day. We realised that from the AK-2 we can see in the far distance the Denali Mountain Chain. Today, in the bright sun we can see the big one itself!  It's only 160 miles away. 

I, jokingly, suggest we can go back there. But Drew, a true cynic, replies "you've seen how fast those clouds appear, they would get there before us" 

So we continue on the AK-2 going South. We then came to a viewing point over the Tanana River, and guess what, we have great views of Denali itself. 

The elusive mountain has come out to see us before we leave

At Delta Junction we turn off the AK -2 and on to the AK-4. Which continues to be called the Richardson Highway. Drew smiles as the map says take the AK-4 for 164 miles. He does like point and click driving. 

Yes, there she is - Denali Mountain in the middle of the range

A few miles further on we come to a Rest Point with even better views of Denali. What a surprise to see it, we thought we had lost that chance. At this point we are almost on the Denali Fault. What can I say - Wow just wow.

It's Denali's Fault

At Latitude - 63.563424 and Longitude - 145.860795 (the palce doesn't have a name we had even more chances to take the immense Alaska Mountain Range across the Tanana River. 

Denali Range

There are a lot more photos of Denali and the other amazing geology in this area on Flickr. 

Richardson Monument

We come to the Monument to Richardson the great road builder. This location also have views of another glacier. 

Glacier

Having never seen one until last year in Canada, we are becoming somewhat blasé about them now.

Lunch

The AK-4 crosses AK-8 (Denali Highway) at Paxson we crossed the other end of this road on the AK-3 at Cantwell just before we arrived at the Denali Perch.

Meier's Lake Roadhouse

We manage to stop for lunch at 1:40pm at Meier's Lake Roadhouse. This was the first place to stop since Delta Junction, 96 miles or an hour and fifty minutes ago. 

The Story of the Roadhouse

Meier's Lake Roadhouse is a somewhat eccentric place, with one lady managing the shop, petrol station and the restaurant. At least she didn't have to cook too. The Roadhouse is part of a chain of roadhouses that were 20 miles apart (a day's walk) in the days of the Goldrush. There are only four left, and this is the only one from 1906. However eccentric the place was (go to Flickr for photos of their 'museum'!!) we enjoyed our lunch. 

Cheeseburger

Drew had a Cheeseburger - Cheddar, Lettuce, tomato and onion (no Pickle).

Fiery St Elias Burger

I had a Fiery St Elias Burger - Hamburger with bacon, ham, 2 slices of pepper jack cheese, sriracha sauce and jalapenos, tomato, pickle and onion  (No Lettuce). It was well cooked and tasty.

The mountains are back, behind Meier's Lake

We made sure the owner knew our food preferences as, when we entered, we had heard her tell (with some force) another customer that she has to go 100 miles for tomatoes, so she wants to know what people want, so she doesn't have any waste!!

The family goats

We also had a chance to meet the family goats called Goulash and Wurst.

Old Town Copper Center Inn and Restaurant

Room 1 - Old Town Copper Center Inn and Restaurant

At 3:44pm we got to Old Town Copper Center Inn and Restaurant, just off the AK-4. This inn and restaurant also does lodging, and when we arrived outside, we asked the elderly gentleman who was sitting painting the steps how we checked in. He shouted behind him "Kim, folks to check in". Kim one of the owners replied, also a volume. "Tell them check in isn't until 3pm". To which the older man replied - "but its a quarter to four". To which Kim respond "Oh expletive deleted" 

Room 1 -Old Town Copper Center Inn and Restaurant

Still everything was ready for us and we could check in to our room straight away. The room is one of four in a small annex just off the main building. Everything is pristine and well laid out. More important for me, they have a great wifi connection.

Kim asked what time we were leaving in the morning, and we explained the need for a prompt start due to an afternoon flight. She was disappointed not to be able to welcome us for breakfast tomorrow and even more disappointed to let us know that her and her staff were away tonight in Valdez (the nearest large town - 100 miles south) for a staff party as one of the staff was leaving.

Copper River Princess Wilderness Lodge 

Copper River Princess Wilderness Lodge

Kim kindly directed us to the nearest place that does food. The Copper River Princess Wilderness Lodge, about three miles up the hill above Copper Center.

Homstead Wings

The Lodge was busy, but we were able to get a table with a nice view out to the valley beyond. I began with Homestead Wings. A light starter of crispy chicken wings and drumettes served with celery, carrots and bleu cheese dressing. I opted for the peak heat sauce, which turned out to be quite mild. The wings were nicely crisp, and it seemed strange to be into the third week of my holiday before eating what used to be a stable of my US food choices. 

Caesar Salad

Drew choose the Caesar Salad with romaine lettuce, parmesan, garlic croutons and Caesar dressing, it was chrisp and salty, so Drew was happy.

Copper River Salmon

Given that Copper River Salmon is a delicacy across the whole of the USA, I couldn't resist tasting some. This lightly seasoned Alaska salmon was cooked pink and grilled with broccoli, green courgette, and petit pan served over rice pilaf. A very tasty salmon with some nice accompaniments which were an usual, but pleasant combination.

FIsh and Chips

Drew went with the Fish and Chips, with two pieces of panko breaded  cod with French fries, lemon wedge and tartar sauce. The crisp batter suited the soft flaky fish and the chips (or French fries as they are called here) were nicely chipped and cooked crisply. Drew felt it was very nice indeed.

Mount Wrangell

As we left the restaurant we found that we were looking across another glacier. This one on Mount Wrangell which appears in the distance. It turns our, that while we choose Copper Center for its distance between Fairbanks and Anchorage (without repeating the journey up to Fairbanks). We have in fact come to a delightful wilderness park. Indeed the Wrangell-St Elias National Park is the biggest National Park in the USA at 20,000 square miles (Yellowstone and Yosemite need a country the size of Switerland to be added to their combined size to equate to Wrangell-St Elias! Denali National Park is the third largest at 9,492 square miles, still larger than Wales which is 8,006!!  <<Co-pilot's note: For reference, dear readers. It has no camp sites, other than a short road to the Visitors Centres, all roads are gravel, there are not marked hikes. It is designed purely for people to get back to nature unaided. It is the only one in the US designed this way. You can go 280 miles without encountering any facilities. - Not I think somewhere Haydn would like!!>>

We went back to Old Town Copper Center and to bed at 10.00pm. The end of another lovely day, and the beginning of our last night in Alaska.